Manialtepec Lagoon (25 minutes away from Puerto) is a real heaven for birders and for birds, we saw hundreds of birds, at night we splashed into bioluminescent water under an starry night and surrounded for gracious fireflies.
At sea, hundreds probably thousands of dolphins welcomed us with a surrealistic dance, jumping all around the boats, swimming along, performing beautiful jumps and so forth.
Here are the photos, hopefully one day you might want to joins us in an incredible trip:
Day 2 AM The group traveled to Manialtepec Lagoon, 20 k north of Pto Escondido for a motor boat cruise enjoying the bird life on 3 different aquatic habitats – the brackish water main lagoon, the fresh-water river ecosystem, and the ocean beach. Both resident tropical species and northern migrant birds were abundant. Terrestrial species were also observed along the water’s edge habitat. Participants were all given a bird species checklist to record their observations. Highlights here were the 14 species of herons and egrets including Boat-billed and Tiger Herons, as well as endemic species found only in a narrow range of a few Mexican states like Rufous-naped Wren, Yellow-winged Cacique and Golden-cheeked Woodpecker. Northern Jacana – the “lily walker” and White-fronted parrot feeding in acacia trees were additional sightings. We enjoyed “sopes” under a shady ramada on the barrier beach where the Pacific Ocean surf crashed in on one side, with the calm waters of the Manialtepec river and lagoon on the other side. After the break we observed the start of a multi-species aquatic bird colony hosting wood Stork, Neotropic Cormorant, American Anhinga and other aquatic birds.
PM Most participants joined in a 2 hour walking tour beginning at “Coco’s Beach Club” in Bacocho subdivision observing birds in the upper dune scrub vegetation and tropical deciduous forest habitat. Highlights included the numerous migrant Scissor-tailed Flycatchers, Blue-black Grassquit, and Streak-backed Orioles. Dinner that night found us at the “Arco Iris” Hotel while entertained by the Veracruzana folksinger “Mayca” and her band.
Day 3 AM Our morning expedition left Pto Angelito Beach at 7am on 2 boats owned by Capitan Omar and his able boatmen for a pelagic (ocean) cruise to enjoy the abundant tropical ocean life found at Pto Escondido. Omar commented that because there were few prey fish – such as sardines that seabirds were very uncommon this day. The trip however was a highlight of the tour as we motored out 10 km to the steep slope of the ocean trench off-shore here that produces an upwelling current of nutrients. We were greeted there by seemingly endless thousands of dolphins – Spotted, Spinner, and Common. They rode the bow waves of our boats just inches away from us, leaping, playing, and spinning in an outrageous display of exuberant joy that left us all with a profound sense of awe. No doubt participants have some great photographic memories of these wonderful marine mammals. Our boatmen dove overboard to grab onto a few Ridley Sea Turtles to hold for photos as well, this being the small approx. 100 lb sea turtle that nests on the beaches of Oaxaca by the hundreds of thousands. After the pelagic tour the group enjoyed a seafood lunch and snorkeling off the reef at Pto Angelito and Manzanillo beaches. Some of us drifted off to sleep that night with images of magical spinning dolphins in the air surrounding us on a calm tropical ocean …..
PM This afternoon we set off on another short trip to the Colotepec River valley south of “Puerto” in search of the beautiful endemic Orange-breasted Bunting. We had good looks at White-throated Magpie Jay and Doubleday’s Hummingbird before encountering the stunning orange, turquoise and yellow buntings. We then motored to the river estuary for a sunset walk along the tidal section while observing waders and shorebirds like White Ibis, Black Skimmer, Tern species, and both white and blue colour phases of the Reddish Egret. Dinner was enjoyed this night at the breezy colonial style Hotel Santa Fe restaurant overlooking the famous surfing beach of Playa Zicatela.
Day 4 AM This was an optional day off but some participants joined Michael and his birding clients on a morning return trip to Manialtepec Lagoon where we enjoyed looks at the rare Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, Citreoline Trogon, and Crane Hawk. Other participants explored Puerto’s Saturday market, the town and beaches or otherwise relaxed, then enjoyed a mid-day beach-side meal at the “Sabor al Mar” restaurant overlooking the Playa Principal.
PM This afternoon the group enjoyed a sunset cruise on Manialtepec Lagoon led by Joan Walker and our boatman – Lalo. During the golden hour glow of sunset there were hundreds of roosting Magnificent Frigatebirds, Brown Pelicans, and numerous heron species joining the nesting birds at the aquatic bird colony at the “El Carnero” lagunita. We landed on the beach at “Puerto Suelo” enjoying wine and sunset over the Pacific while awaiting the darkness on this moon-less night before returning to El Carnero to delight in the phenomena of bioluminescence there that can only be observed in total darkness. As we entered the lagunita the brackish water began to radiate a luminescent white glowing light that outlined darting fish, and shrimp, then later a few of the group’s brave swimmers who glowed eerily in the black water. We marveled at this natural history spectacle then found our way back to the dock while spot-lighting the mangrove forest and the nets of fisherman at work on this tranquil, enchanted lagoon.
Day 5 Flight / Travel Day,
with thanks to our professional chauffeurs - Gaudencio and Juan Jose
